Pancetta Mushroom Ragu

Aka what to make if you're living in a snow globe

For the first time in years, this winter is looking like the ones I grew up with — consistent snowy days, cold, but not frigid —and I couldn’t be more pleased. Whenever friends lament about winter, I bristle inside. Suddenly I hear my mother’s voice coming out of my mouth as I say it’s just about how well dressed you are, and that if you just participate in winter, it’s actually a lovely time of year. For me that means ample snowy walks (which are then greeted with nights spent by the fire), skiing (downhill and cross country), and wishing that we’ll get a least one shot of ice skating on our pond. The more obvious joy is that it’s finally time for all those cozy, cold weather dishes I’ve been thinking of as the last signs of summer slipped away a few months ago.

I first made this dish for my family when I was in the Netherlands back in October, with the thought being that I wanted something cozy that came together quickly (that’s kind of my thing, right?). The easiest way to achieve that is by leaning on some flavor heavy hitters. In this case, pancetta, which brings a saltiness to the dish, as well as mushrooms, tomato paste, and red wine, all which add that elusive umami flavor. It’s one of those dishes that tastes much more complicated than it is. While you could skip the mushrooms, I love the added texture they add alongside the beef. It’s exactly the kind of thing I want to be eating from now until March.

Serves 4 to 6