Repurposing a newsletter I wrote two years ago, because y’all, it’s ramp season. Every spring in the Northeast and Appalachia, there’s an almost comical level of excitement when the first ramps are spotted at the farmers market. There’s been plenty of articles and memes poking fun at the over-the-top ramp enthusiasm that the food community boasts, but the thing is, ramps really are special. In the Catskills, the first sighting of ramps signifies that spring really is underway, which feels monumental as you've clawed your way out of the expanse of grey of the last few months.
So, what are ramps?
Ramps are a type of wild allium that grow exclusively in the Northeast and Appalachia (in the US at least) in wooded areas. They seemingly come out of nowhere at the end of March or beginning of April, and by the end of May, they’re gone. This short time period is part of the reason that ramp season causes such a frenzy. Sometimes called wild leeks or spring onions, their flavor is totally unique. They’re more mild than garlic, but have a similar pungency, and sweeter than onions. You can recognize them by their broad green leaves.
Where do I find ramps?
If you live in the Northeast, you can find them pretty easily at farmers markets or specialty stores. Be forewarned, they’re expensive! If you live in the countryside, you can forage your own. If you live elsewhere in the country, it’s still possible to find ramps, but it’ll cost you. I once found them at Eataly in Los Angeles for something outrageous like $10 a bunch. Or you can always try convincing your friends across the country to send you a box (like me!).
A bag of ramps I brought to my friend Hana while I was in NYC last weekend
Let’s talk about sustainability
Typically, when you buy ramps in a store or market, they will come with the bulb on the end. The bulb is *delicious*. You can pickle them, use them like scallions, or simply cook the whole ramp, but the issue is that by removing the bulbs, you run the risk of killing the ramp population by overharvesting. We always leave the bulbs in the ground and just remove the leaves. Another way to mitigate this issue is to harvest only 10% of the patch, ensuring they’ll come back in the years to come.
What do I do with ramps?
You’ve secured ramps! Congratulations. There’s so many ways to cook ramps, but one of my favorites is the simplest. Simply sauté them in olive oil with a pinch of salt and serve them on toast, with eggs, or even as a side of greens. Below I’ve also shared a recipe for a ramp compound butter and ramp pesto.
Ramp Butter
Makes 1/2 cup
Ingredients
1 bunch ramps
8 tablespoons (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
Zest of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Directions
Prepare an ice bath. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Once the water begins to boil, add the ramps and blanch until just wilted and bright green, about 30 seconds. Transfer the ramps to the ice bath for 5 minutes. Transfer the ramps to a colander or sieve to drain.
Add the ramps to the bowl of a food processor and pulse until chopped. Add the butter, lemon zest, salt, and pepper, and pulse until combined.
Use immediately —on toast, with vegetables, on steak, with eggs — or refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
Ramp Pesto
Makes 1 cup
Ingredients
1 large bunch ramps, bulbs removed
⅓ cup walnuts
½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Directions
Prepare an ice bath. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Once the water begins to boil, add the ramps and blanch until just wilted and bright green, about 30 seconds. Transfer the ramps to the ice bath for 5 minutes. Transfer the ramps to a colander or sieve to drain.
While the ramps are draining, toast the walnuts. Add the walnuts to a small pan over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until toasted and aromatic, about 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the walnuts to a cutting board and roughly chop. Transfer the walnuts to the bowl of a food processor and pulse until finely chopped.
Use your hands to squeeze any excess water out of the ramps. Roughly chop the ramps on a cutting board and transfer to the bowl of the food processor, along with the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Pulse until just combined.
With the motor running on low, add the olive oil until just combined. Add the salt and pepper and pulse once more to combine.
Serve with pasta, on toast, with eggs, or however else you’d like.
When are you sending out the invites for your next ramp forage?
"You’ve secured ramps! Congratulations" 🤣🤣